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View of high alpine lake in Colorado

Jul 18, 2021 Day 3

15.7 miles 43.2 total miles

Cottonwood Pass

I woke up sore and exhausted – my body rejecting the idea of packing up and hiking. It took me a long time to get moving.

Throughout the day, I struggled to eat. Nothing in my backpack sounded appetizing. I felt lightheaded and nauseous. I stopped often, making slow progress towards Cottonwood Pass. With many miles to go, I started to think about going into town, dreaming of a hitch to Buena Vista where I could eat, shower, and rest.

Wooden post with trail marker in foreground of mountain view

On the trail above the pass, I met an older couple out for a day hike. When we arrived at the trailhead, they offered me a ride to Buena Vista. When I asked them to drop me off at a grocery store in town, they insisted that I stay at their home. They’d never hosted a hiker before and were curious about thru-hiking. I felt like an imposter with only three days on trail, but I appreciated their kindness and generosity. I was feeling beat up, and I almost cried with relief and gratitude.

I'm sure they regretted their invitation as soon as we closed the car doors and started driving down the road. Only three days, and I smelled. We stopped at the grocery store and I bought more snacks than I needed. At their home, I showered and started laundry – ruined their bathroom really – while they cooked a vegan skillet dinner with watermelon and iced tea and played music. Over dinner they talked about their hikes and their grandkids. I felt lucky to be invited and welcomed into their home. Before heading to bed, they sang an original song, "She Don't Sing About Whiskey" and shared a devotional from Brennan Manning's Reflections for Ragamuffins.

Comfortable, clean, and laying on a cloud of pillows, I thought about my plans for the Collegiate Loop. Realizing that I was in over my head, with altitude and fitness, I considered alternatives. I could hitchhike back to Cottonwood Pass and continue the Collegiate West to Twin Lakes as planned, or I could take the loss and reroute, rejoining the trail on the Collegiate East side at Avalanche Trailhead, starting the long walk back to my car. I fell asleep without deciding, hoping to feel better in the morning, reluctant to quit on a bad day.